Ha LongI tried 20 Ha Long Bay restaurants to find these 10
Vetted field logs

From the field

  • Ha Long
  • Visited: May 19

I got so incredibly annoyed looking at a Tripadvisor list the other...

I tried 20 Ha Long Bay restaurants to find these 10

I got so incredibly annoyed looking at a Tripadvisor list the other day while I was trying to tell a friend where to eat down by the coast.

All these websites listing Ha Long Bay restaurants basically just rank places based on whoever has the biggest English menu and sells western food right near the massive Sun World theme park. And tourists end up sitting in these completely empty dining rooms with bad lighting paying way too much money for rubbery squid because nobody ever explained the geography of the city to them.

Because we already went over the specific weird marine animals you should try in my food guide, I’m just giving you the actual GPS spots now.

And honestly if you are building your Ha Long Bay itinerary right now and staring at hotel bookings, do yourself a huge favor. Skip the Bai Chay tourist hotels. Go jump on Agoda/Booking.com and just filter your map for the Hon Gai area across the bridge. You can get a massive room for cheap and literally just walk down the street to the best spots on this list without arguing with a taxi driver at night.

So here are the places. They are all totally different, some are chaotic, some are weirdly expensive but worth it.

Short Videos

You’ll notice I’ve linked to a few hotels and activities I used or recommend, you can even highlight any text to check prices and book instantly. If you make a booking through them, I receive a small commission, which really helps support the work I do here, at no additional cost to you.

1. Bánh cuốn chả mực Gốc Bàng (In an alleyway, literally the best breakfast)

I talk about this place so much it’s probably getting annoying but it really is the anchor of the whole Ha Long street food scene.

You take a taxi over into the deep local part of Hon Gai and tell them to drop you at Ngõ 1 Nhà Hát (it’s near Bach Dang ward). It’s basically just an alley that gets super jammed with motorbikes and people yelling over each other and the entire street just smells like heavy boiling oil.

They serve one thing so you don’t really have to look at a menu. Steamed rice rolls (bánh cuốn) with minced pork and mushrooms inside, covered in dry fried shallots. And then the main thing is they pull these golden-brown squid cakes (chả mực) right out of a vat of boiling oil on the street and cut them into wedges and put them on your table.

You sit on these completely tiny red plastic chairs and the floor usually has crumpled napkins everywhere and you just dip the hot squid into garlic fish sauce. It’s incredibly chewy because the locals hand-pound the squid in heavy stone mortars instead of blending it.

It costs around 40,000 or maybe 50,000 VND depending on what you get which is insanely cheap and it fills you up until way past lunchtime. They close early though. Do not show up at 2 PM.

2. Nhà Hàng Hồng Hạnh 3 (The absolute seafood machine)

There are multiple Hồng Hạnh locations but this one is located over at 50 Hạ Long street in Bai Chay and I end up going here whenever people are visiting me who want the “massive Asian banquet dinner” experience.

It does not look like a normal restaurant, it is a multi-story massive complex and when you walk in it is absolute sensory overload. Families screaming at each other in Vietnamese, waiters practically running holding huge trays of soup, kids crying.

The reason this is easily one of the best Ha Long Bay restaurants even though it’s a huge commercial chain is simply because of supply chains. Because they serve thousands of people every single week, nothing in their seafood tanks sits there for very long. The crab doesn’t get old and die in the tank. They are constantly cycling fresh stuff out of the ocean.

You don’t order off a piece of paper, you just go to the blue plastic tanks, look at the giant grouper or the weird mantis shrimps swimming around and point.

You HAVE to say “How much is this per kilo” before you let them scoop it out. I’ll explain the pricing scam thing later down the post but for Hồng Hạnh, usually they are actually pretty honest.

Just order grilled oysters with peanuts and fat, and a massive boiling sour seafood hotpot and let the chaos happen around you.

3. Cua Vàng Restaurant (If you have a higher budget)

If Hồng Hạnh is a loud party, Cua Vàng is where local politicians or rich coal businessmen go to close a deal. It’s in the Cai Dam area.

They are famous because everything is cooked in clay pots. Cooking seafood in heavy unglazed clay pots just locks in the heat completely so when they bring a crab out and take the lid off on your table it’s bubbling and hissing aggressively.

Their signature thing is mud crab cooked with fresh thin noodles and weird mushrooms in a dark brown sauce inside the clay pot. It takes a while to eat and you make a massive mess with the crab crackers breaking the shells apart on the table but the meat is insanely sweet.

Because the whole place feels slightly more upscale, they definitely charge more here. If you have four people and you all go heavy on crab and beers you are probably going to spend a few million VND easily.

So it’s not a backpacker dinner, but the aircon works perfectly and the toilets aren’t soaking wet which is something you definitely start caring about after two weeks in Asia.

4. Quán Bún Bề Bề Huy Chiên (My default hangover cure)

Mantis shrimp (bề bề) are huge weird underwater centipedes. And eating them when they are still in the shell sucks because they have these nasty sharp spikes running down the sides that absolutely rip up your thumbs if you try to peel them by hand at the dinner table.

The ladies at Bún Bề Bề Huy Chiên on Thuc Thoai street over in Hon Gai fix this because they peel them for you before they throw them in the soup.

Whenever I spend the entire night prior sitting on the deck of a boat drinking Halida beer and wake up feeling terrible, I grab a car straight here.

You sit on a low stool and they bring you this giant steaming bowl of thin rice noodles swimming in a sour tomato tamarind broth. They throw a bunch of sweet mantis shrimp meat on top, maybe half a thunder crab claw, some celery, and fried tofu.

I dump a spoon of raw chili paste and a ton of squeezed lime into it and basically just drink the broth as fast as I can. It’s like 60k VND or maybe 70k and it immediately fixes my brain.

Don’t go here looking for aesthetics, it’s just a local street breakfast shop that gets wildly busy from 7 AM to 9 AM and then dies out completely.

5. Vựa Hải Sản Bãi Cháy (The raw tank depot)

“Vựa” means warehouse and honestly this isn’t even really a restaurant. It’s essentially an enormous roof covering a completely wet concrete floor full of industrial oxygenated fish tanks.

If you want the super raw, authentic drinking experience, this is it. It’s on the Bai Chay side and you usually just go here to see things that shouldn’t be eaten but are.

It smells like a fish market. They have tanks with moray eels and geoducks. Have you ever seen a live geoduck clam before it’s cooked? It looks bizarre and unappetizing with this massive fleshy neck sticking out of the shell.

But if you tell the guys in rubber boots running the tanks to take one and make it “nướng mỡ hành” (grilled on charcoal with pork fat and scallions) it turns into the best tasting thing on the planet.

You drink Tiger beer with massive cubes of ice in the glass and crack open shells for hours. The floor is slippery so wear flip-flops.

6. The One Indian Halong Restaurant

It sounds completely stupid putting an Indian restaurant on a list about the best Ha Long Bay restaurants when there is all this fresh squid literally fifty feet away in the water.

But I’m including it purely because of human psychology. If you travel for three weeks in Vietnam and you’ve been doing the culturally immersive thing eating pho and banh mi and rice with fish sauce for 21 days straight, eventually you just crack. Your stomach decides it cannot process another boiled sea creature. You just aggressively want heavy spices, thick bread, and zero fish smell.

I hit that point last time and walked into this spot near Cai Dam market. It’s run by Indian expats and it completely saved my mood.

The garlic naan comes out completely blistered and huge, they make an extremely heavy and dense butter chicken, and the dal actually tastes authentic. The service is incredibly fast.

It feels so totally weird sitting next to a massive tourist rollercoaster park dipping bread into chicken tikka but I don’t care, it fills a massive need when the food fatigue hits you.

7. Sữa Chua Trân Châu Cô Nghi (The mandatory midnight dessert)

This isn’t dinner. It’s dessert but the yogurt scene in Ha Long is literally so famous that this exact brand ended up becoming a multi-million dollar franchise spanning across the whole country, they opened hundreds of stores in Hanoi but this is the origin point over on Van Lang street.

After you finish eating salty hotpot somewhere and it’s 10 PM and the air is super thick and humid, you just want cold sugar. You go to this corner place, sit outside, and order Pearl Yogurt.

They don’t mix it for you. You get a little glass jar filled with this perfectly cold, incredibly dense house-made slightly sour yogurt. And next to it, they bring a small separate warm bowl with boba pearls soaking in pure thick hot coconut milk syrup.

You use a small spoon to drop the intensely hot sweet coconut pearls straight into the frozen sour yogurt.

The pearls get insanely chewy from the sudden temperature drop. It’s like eating dessert and drinking coconut milk at the same time and costs practically nothing. Teenagers come here to hang out and talk loudly all night, the vibe is chaotic but great.

8. Talata Seafood Restaurant (The polished local spot)

I put this here for people who really want good authentic seafood but absolutely refuse to sit on plastic chairs in alleyways.

Talata is situated over on Hai Long street. The actual architecture of the restaurant is really nice, a lot of open design and great lighting and actually good clean bathrooms. But unlike the tourist traps in Bai Chay, the food they serve here is deeply traditional local style.

I’d highly recommend pointing to some squid or getting the soft shell crab if they have it in stock. Their dipping sauces are really intricate too, instead of just dumping chili sauce on a plate they do these proper green chili lime blends that cut through the richness of fried food perfectly.

It’s obviously going to cost more than eating in a wet market but compared to the hotels over the bridge, the prices here are very transparent.

It’s where you bring a date if you want to look like you know what you are doing in this city without paying insane prices.

9. Quán Bia Hơi dọc đường Trần Quốc Nghiễn (Not a specific restaurant, but a lifestyle)

If you literally just type Tran Quoc Nghien road into Google maps you will see a massive newly paved coastal boulevard running alongside the water in Hon Gai with a huge sea wall.

In the late afternoon around 5 PM, just drive down this street. There are dozens of completely nameless, informal open-air bia hoi spots set up right on the sidewalk looking across the water at the massive luxury houses.

I didn’t want to list a specific one because they basically all operate exactly the same and some disappear after a few months anyway. Just pick the one with the most local older guys smoking Thuoc Lao (the massive bamboo water pipes).

You walk in, order a giant mug of fresh draft beer which is incredibly cheap, and just tell them to bring out a massive plate of boiled peanuts, some fermented pork skewers (nem chua) or fried tofu.

They don’t usually have huge heavy dinners here. It’s mostly drinking snacks. The sun starts dropping down over the limestone islands far in the background and you get completely hammered on fresh beer for like eight dollars while local kids fly kites on the road nearby.

It’s exactly what a tourist actually imagines doing when they come to Vietnam but usually miss because they are stuck in a hotel restaurant eating french fries.

10. Chợ Cái Dăm Food Stalls (If you don’t care about cleanliness at all)

Cái Dăm market in Bai Chay is an enormous, terrifyingly loud concrete trading floor where commercial fishermen and wholesale buyers scream at each other early in the morning over buckets of dying fish.

It smells. The smell hits you from a block away.

But surrounding the edges of the market and pushing slightly inside are dozens of tiny street food stalls operated by extremely aggressive aunties waving at you to sit down.

I put this at the very bottom of my Ha Long Bay restaurants list purely because you have to have a strong stomach to deal with the atmosphere, but the raw quality of what they are throwing into those boiling pots is ridiculous.

Because they literally just buy the scrap seafood that didn’t sell wholesale an hour earlier for dirt cheap, the prices you pay for food here are absurdly low.

You can find random variations of snail soup (Bún ốc) or bizarre sea clam congee (Cháo trai) which is this thick savory rice porridge that feels great on a rainy day. Just find whatever stall has zero tourists, no english translations anywhere on the dirty laminate signs, and sit down. And just eat whatever the lady decides to hand you.

And a really annoying warning about pricing

Since you now know the coordinates of where to go, you need to understand the fundamental scam of coastal Vietnamese tourism. It’s called the “Market Price Trap“.

If you sit down at an upscale spot on the beach strip and you ask for crab, they are going to hand you a nice looking menu. You find “Steamed Sea Crab” on the page, and instead of a price, it just says “Thời Giá” or “Market Price” or just a blank space.

You cannot ever just say “Yeah ok give me the crab”.

A lot of people are awkward and they don’t want to seem cheap so they don’t ask what the current market price is. The waiters know this. They exploit western politeness perfectly.

They bring you the crab. It tastes fine.

Then an hour later you get a tiny printed receipt and the crab line item is for like 2.5 million VND (100 bucks).

When you argue, the owner will come out, shrug, and say “crab is expensive today”. The police will not help you because you literally ate the crab and the menu technically warned you the price floats. It is completely legal.

When choosing the actual seafood from the glass tanks at any of these Ha Long Bay restaurants, the process goes exactly like this: You ask “how much per kilo?” before they even grab the net. They tell you a number. They catch the fish. They put it on the digital scale in front of your face. You nod. Then they send it to the kitchen to die.

If you establish the price upfront loudly and make them punch the weight into the machine where you can see the number, they respect the transaction and give you perfect service. If you are quiet and try to act wealthy, they will squeeze you until you are dry.

So yeah. Download Grab to navigate over the big bridge to the Hon Gai side, skip the generic food stalls trying to sell you hamburgers near Sun World, check the price per kilo on the seafood scale, and go find a ridiculously small plastic stool in an alley to eat squid cake. That is all there is to the local dining strategy here. Have fun out there and bring antacids just in case.

No comments yet, let's be the first to comment 😊.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Avatar


Share your experiences or just ask people a question? Click to see the community

Don't show again
What's on your mind?
Choose your post type

Discussion

Got a question or an idea you want to discuss? Start a discussion here to get opinions and connect with other members.

Guest Post

Have a story, valuable experience, or a detailed guide to share? Contribute a high-quality article to enrich our community.

Your Post's Journey

To ensure quality, all new posts are not immediately visible on search engines like Google, Bing... Our team prioritizes reviewing high-value, insightful posts to feature publicly. You'll receive a notification when your contribution is selected!

Report Content

Create Story
×

Choose your preferred language for localized experiences: