There are three good reasons to sleep in Meo Vac: the Sunday market, the Khâu Vai love market once a year, and a 120-year-old Hmong house called the Auberge. Otherwise Meo Vac is a lunch stop at the bottom of Ma Pi Leng, and a very good one.
I usually pass through Meo Vac and hungry at about one o’clock with the pass behind me and Du Gia still ahead, and I’ve slept there a handful of times for one of those three reasons. It’s the practical town of the loop, with the market, the banks and the best lunch between Dong Van and Du Gia, and it’s a bit more interesting than people give it credit for once you know where to look.
This is the Meo Vac Ha Giang guide I’d want before a 2027 trip: where it is, what to do, where to eat, and how to move on.
- Quick Answer: Meo Vac is a district town in Ha Giang, now part of Tuyen Quang province, at the eastern end of Ma Pi Leng Pass, about 22km from Dong Van and around 155km from Ha Giang city. On most Ha Giang Loop itineraries it’s the lunch stop on the day from Dong Van to Du Gia. The main things to do in Meo Vac Ha Giang are the Sunday market, the Nho Que boat below Ma Pi Leng, Pả Vi Hmong village just north of town, and the Khâu Vai love market, held once a year on the 27th day of the third lunar month, which in 2027 falls in early May.
- Meo Vac basics:
- 22km from Dong Van over Ma Pi Leng, 60 to 80km to Du Gia, about 155km to Ha Giang city.
- ATMs, petrol and a proper market. The last full-service town before Du Gia.
- Things to do in Meo Vac:
- Sunday market: villages from all around, with a big livestock market outside.
- Pả Vi Hmong village: a rebuilt Hmong village of homestays and cafés 4 to 5km north of town.
- Khâu Vai love market: about 25km away, once a year, early May in 2027.
- The Nho Que boat: from the dock below Ma Pi Leng, 150,000 VND.
- Where to eat: Adventure Restaurant, Thuỷ Tiên, Thanh Phương, and Lá coffee for coffee.
- Where to stay: most Meo Vac homestays are in Pả Vi, 4 to 5km north of town. For the Sunday market, sleep in town.
Meo Vac Ha Giang: Where It Is and Why You’d Stop
Meo Vac sits at the eastern end of Ma Pi Leng Pass, where the Happiness Road comes down off the cliffs and into a wide bowl of karst. It’s about 22km from Dong Van, over the pass, and around 155km from Ha Giang city the long way round through Yen Minh. Since the 2025 merger its address is Tuyen Quang province, though everyone still calls it Meo Vac, Ha Giang.
Meo Vac town is a district centre and it looks like one. There’s a main street, Đường Hạnh Phúc, lined with restaurants, a market, a bank or two with ATMs, petrol stations, and concrete buildings going up the hillsides. It isn’t pretty the way Dong Van’s old quarter is, and it doesn’t try to be. What it has is everything you need in the middle of the loop’s longest day, and the best food between Dong Van and Du Gia.
Most itineraries hit Meo Vac at lunchtime on the Ma Pi Leng day, after the pass and the boat, and ride on south to Du Gia in the afternoon. That’s what I’d do on a first loop, and the whole day is in the Ha Giang Loop 3-day itinerary. Sleeping here makes sense on a Saturday night, for the Sunday market, around the Khâu Vai festival, or if day two ran so late that Du Gia before dark isn’t realistic.





Things to Do in Meo Vac Ha Giang
Meo Vac Sunday market
The Meo Vac market, on Đường Hạnh Phúc in the middle of town, runs every day, and on Sunday mornings it fills with people from the villages around, many in traditional clothes, with a livestock market outside that’s the biggest on the loop. Dong Van’s Sunday market is on the same morning, so you get one or the other.
On a first loop I’d take Dong Van’s, which is in Dong Van Ancient Street, and come back for this one. What to see, what time to go and what’s for breakfast there are in the Meo Vac Sunday market.



Ma Pi Leng and the Nho Que River
Meo Vac is the town at the bottom of Ma Pi Leng, and the Ma Pi Leng Panorama viewpoint and the turn-off for the Nho Que boat through Tu San Canyon are both on its side of the pass. The boat is 150,000 VND a head. The pass is in Ma Pi Leng Pass guide, and the boat is in the Nho Que river boat ride.



Pả Vi Hmong village
Pả Vi Hạ, 4 to 5km north of town, is a Hmong village rebuilt for visitors, with earthen houses turned into homestays and cafés (6am to 10pm).
It’s pretty at dusk and busy with Vietnamese groups on weekend nights. An hour in the early evening is how I’d see it, and the full picture is in Pả Vi Hmong village.



Khâu Vai love market
Khâu Vai, about 25km from Meo Vac on a rough road, holds its love market once a year on the 27th day of the third lunar month, which in 2027 lands in early May.
The legend behind it is of a Nùng boy and a Giáy girl who couldn’t marry and met there once a year, and it’s now a big festival, so rooms in Meo Vac go early.



Coffee with a view
Cafe Vườn Đào, on the slope above town, is the place to sit over Meo Vac with a coffee and see the whole bowl of the valley. Lá coffee is the one on the main street, covered below.



Where to Eat in Meo Vac
Adventure Restaurant
- 202 Đường Hạnh Phúc
- 8am to 9pm
My lunch stop in Meo Vac, and the best meal I’ve had in town. It’s a small family place with an English-speaking owner and a short menu, because everything is cooked fresh: spring rolls, chicken with rice or noodles, tofu, and fresh juices.
The salted coffee is as good as Hanoi’s. It fills up at lunch when a couple of groups come in at once, so it’s worth being a bit early or a bit late.



Nhà hàng Thuỷ Tiên
- 342 Đường Hạnh Phúc
- 6am to 11:30pm
Big portions and a very welcoming owner. Fried rice with beef and a plate of boiled vegetables for two comes to under 100,000 VND, and there may be rice wine shots on the house, which on a riding day is a no from me.



Hoàng Dũng quán
No menu. You tell the owner what you’d like and he cooks it, sometimes crossing the road to the market for what he doesn’t have. Cheap, and very good.
Where to Stay in Meo Vac
The thing to know before booking is that most places listed as a Meo Vac homestay are actually in Pả Vi, 4 to 5km north of town. That suits a quiet night with a view and doesn’t suit the Sunday market or walking out to dinner.
Beyond that there are three kinds of night: a room in Meo Vac town itself for the market, one of the big group homestays in Pả Vi for a social evening on a tour, or the Auberge, the old Hmong house just outside town, for something quieter. The places I’d book in each are in where to stay in Meo Vac.



Getting to Meo Vac and Moving On
| From Meo Vac to | Route | About |
|---|---|---|
| Dong Van | Over Ma Pi Leng Pass | 22km, 1 hour without stops |
| Du Gia | QL4C to Mau Due, then south past Lung Ho | 60 to 80km, 2.5 to 3 hours |
| Ha Giang city | Back through Yen Minh and Quan Ba | About 150km, 5 to 6 hours |
| Khâu Vai | ĐT217, a rough road | About 25km |
| Cao Bang city | Through Bảo Lạc and the Khau Cốc Chà pass | 180 to 200km, 6 to 7 hours |
Dong Van to Meo Vac over the pass is the famous stretch, and it’s in the Ma Pi Leng guide. Meo Vac to Du Gia is the road most loops take next, and that’s in Du Gia Waterfall and village. Heading east to Cao Bang is a long, hard day and it’s in Cao Bang Loop vs Ha Giang Loop.
Without a bike, Bằng Phấn runs a 29-seater from Ha Giang city to Dong Van and Meo Vac at 5am for 130,000 VND.
Meo Vac Weather and When to Go
September to November is the best time, clear and dry, with buckwheat in October and November and busy weekends to match. December to February is cold, with fog on Ma Pi Leng in the mornings, and May to September brings afternoon rain. Meo Vac weather is much like Dong Van’s, cold at night in winter and hot at midday in summer down in the valley.
For a 2027 trip, early May for Khâu Vai is the date to plan around if you want the festival, and to avoid if you want Meo Vac quiet. Any Sunday morning is the other one.
Meo Vac FAQ
Is Meo Vac worth staying in? On a Saturday night for the Sunday market, around Khâu Vai, or for a night at the Auberge. Otherwise it’s a lunch stop, and most loops sleep in Du Gia.
Dong Van or Meo Vac for the night? Dong Van, for the old quarter. Meo Vac is the better base only for its own market or Khâu Vai.
How far is Dong Van to Meo Vac? About 22km over Ma Pi Leng Pass, an hour of riding and two or three with the stops.
Is there an ATM in Meo Vac? Yes, on the main road through town. It’s the last reliable one before Du Gia.
When is the Khâu Vai love market in 2027? On the 27th day of the third lunar month, which falls in early May 2027. It’s worth checking the exact date against a lunar calendar before booking.
Is Meo Vac on the Ha Giang Loop? Yes, on every route. It’s the town at the eastern end of Ma Pi Leng Pass, between Dong Van and Du Gia.
If You’ve Only Got an Hour in Meo Vac
Most people have about an hour here, so this is what I do with it:
Lunch at Adventure Restaurant, and I’m early or late to miss the tour groups. Then a salted coffee at Lá, five minutes down the main road. The ATM if I’ll need cash for Du Gia, since there’s nothing reliable after this. And a full tank before the road south, because the next stretch past Lung Ho is long and quiet.
That’s forty-five minutes, which leaves fifteen for Cafe Vườn Đào and the view over town, if you’ve got it.
















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