Con Dao. People talk about this place in hushed tones here in Vietnam. It’s not like Phu Quoc or Nha Trang, where you go just to party and lie on a beach. It has a vibe. A heavy one.

Everyone tells you it’s beautiful, a paradise even, but they always follow it up with “…and it has a really dark history.” Both things are true, and they exist side-by-side in this really weird, intense way that’s hard to describe.

I went. Spent three days there, just me and a motorbike. It’s one of those trips that sticks with you. You don’t just ‘do’ Con Dao, you kind of have to process it. It’s beautiful, yes, stunningly so, but it’s also deeply unsettling. And I think that’s why it’s so important to visit.

This isn’t going to be a perfect, polished itinerary. It’s more of a brain dump of my trip, what I found, what I think you should know. It’s for people who want the real story, not just the glossy brochure version.

The TL;DR Version (For People Who Just Want the Facts)

If you don’t want to read my ramblings, here’s the quick and dirty guide. Everything you need is here.

Explore Con Dao Island through my unfiltered 3-day journey. This guide goes beyond basics, sharing a powerful itinerary that balances breathtaking nature with its somber past. Find practical tips on the best Con Dao accommodation, scenic motorbike loops, must-visit beaches like Dam Trau, and a respectful guide to the nightly ritual at Hang Duong Cemetery. A raw look at one of Vietnam’s most memorable destinations.
How I Got There: I flew. It’s an hour from HCMC. Fast, easy, and the view coming in is insane. The other option is a ferry from Vung Tau or Soc Trang. Cheaper, but can be a really rough ride. I’ve done enough rough ferry rides in Asia to last a lifetime.
Best Time to Go: Go between March and September. The sea is calm, weather’s good. It’s also turtle season, which is a huge deal here.
Where I Stayed: The Secret Con Dao. It’s in an old French building, right in the middle of town. Loved it. There’s a whole range of Con Dao accommodation though, from fancy to basic.
Getting Around: Don’t even think about it, just rent a motorbike. It’s like $6 a day. The island is small and the roads are empty and incredible. This is non-negotiable for a real trip. My take on renting a bike.
My 3-Day Plan (sort of):
- Day 1: The Heavy Stuff. You have to face the history first. I went to the Con Dao Museum, then the prison camps (the Tiger Cages are… a lot). At night, I did the pilgrimage to Hang Duong Cemetery. A powerful, weird, unmissable experience.
- Day 2: The Nature Cure. Needed to clear my head. Drove the insane coastal roads, did a sweaty hike in the National Park to a private beach, and then visited two of the best beaches: Nhat Beach (which only appears at low tide) and Dam Trau Beach (where planes fly right over your head).
- Day 3: The Wind Down. Early morning at the local market (noisy, a bit smelly, totally brilliant), drank one last proper Vietnamese coffee, and had a final swim before my flight.
What I Ate: Seafood, obviously. But also look for oyster porridge (Cháo Hàu) and this really unique local snack made from roasted tropical almond seeds.
Rough Cost: Maybe $60-80 a day for a comfortable, mid-range trip. Could be done for less, could easily be more if you stay somewhere fancy.

Short Videos

Actually Getting to Con Dao Island

This isn’t like flying to Da Nang. The island’s isolation is part of its whole deal. You’ve got two main choices.

Plane

I flew. After years of long, uncomfortable journeys around Southeast Asia, a one-hour flight is a gift. Bamboo Airways and VASCO fly from Ho Chi Minh City.

It’s not super cheap – I paid around 2,500,000 VND ($100) for a return ticket, and I booked a few weeks in advance. The price jumps around a lot. But the experience of descending over these tiny green islands in a blue sea, landing on a runway squeezed between a mountain and the ocean… it’s a pretty dramatic way to arrive. And it’s fast.

Con Dao Island - VASCO fly from Ho Chi Minh City

Check availability here

Ferry

The alternative is the fast ferry. You can get it from Vung Tau or Soc Trang. It’s way cheaper, something like 700,000 VND ($28). People say the ride from Soc Trang is shorter and generally smoother (2.5 hours). The Vung Tau one is longer, maybe 4 hours.

But look, I’ve heard stories. From about October to February, the sea can get seriously choppy. If you get seasick, even a little bit, just book the flight. It’s not worth spending your first day on the island feeling green. In the calm season, I’m sure it’s a great, scenic journey. It just wasn’t for me this time.

From either the airport or the ferry port (Ben Dam Port), it’s a 20-minute ride into Con Son, the main town. It’s the only town, really.

Where I Slept: Con Dao Accommodation

Choosing the right Con Dao accommodation is important because it sets the tone. You don’t come here for high-rise resorts. The vibe is more boutique, historical, or just simple.

I picked The Secret Con Dao. I’d seen pictures online and it just looked right. It’s in a series of old French villas that have been restored, right in the center of town on the main seafront road. It has history baked into its walls.

My room was simple but classy, with high ceilings and a balcony looking out to the ocean. It was perfect. It wasn’t cheap-cheap, but it felt like good value for the location and the atmosphere. Being able to just walk out the front door and be right there was worth it.

Of course, there are other options. If you’ve got serious cash to burn, you go to Six Senses Con Dao. It’s world-famous, eco-chic, private pool villas, the works. It’s tucked away on its own beach and looks incredible. One day, maybe.

For a mid-range option with a similar historical feel but a bit more secluded, people rave about Poulo Condor Boutique Resort & Spa. It’s out closer to the airport.

If you’re on a tight budget, don’t worry. The town is full of nhà nghỉ (guesthouses). They’re basic, family-run places. Just walk or drive down Ton Duc Thang or Le Duan street and you’ll see plenty of signs.

Rooms at places like Uyen’s House are clean and will only set you back $20-30 a night. It all depends on what you’re looking for. My choice of Con Dao accommodation was about soaking in the history, and The Secret nailed that.

The Only Way to See the Island

Listen to me on this one. Rent. A. Motorbike. It’s the first thing you should do. Taxis are expensive and you’ll miss everything. The island is made for two wheels.

My hotel rented me one for 150,000 VND (about $6) for the day. That’s the standard price. The roads are a dream. They’re smooth, empty, and hug the coastline in the most incredible way.

There’s practically no traffic. Just you, the road, the jungle on one side, and the sea on the other. Honestly, some of the best riding I’ve done in Vietnam, and it felt super safe. Even if you’re not an experienced rider, this is a good place to try.

Just fill up the tank at the petrol station in town before you head out for the day. Seriously, the freedom of being able to pull over anywhere you see a cool little path or an empty stretch of sand is what makes this trip special. If you’re a bit nervous, I wrote up a thing about how to ride a scooter in Vietnam that might help.

Day 1: Confronting the Ghost

You can’t come to Con Dao Island and just hit the beach. It feels wrong. The ground you’re walking on has soaked up so much pain. So my first day, I decided to lean into it.

First, I went to the Con Dao Museum. You have to do this before the prisons. It gives you the timeline, the context for the horror you’re about to witness. It costs 50,000 VND ($2) for a ticket that gets you into the museum and all the prison sites. It’s well laid out with English explanations.

Then, the prisons. The main one is Phu Hai Prison. It’s just a short walk from the museum. The moment you walk through the gates, the air changes. It gets heavy. You walk past the lines of dark, filthy cells, see the shackles on the floor. It’s hot, oppressive, and silent.

But the one that really gets you is the “Tiger Cages“ at the Phu Son Prison site. This is where they kept prisoners in roofless cells with iron grates over the top, so guards could poke them with sticks from above.

They have these mannequins set up, re-enacting the scenes. It’s graphic and it makes your stomach turn. I just stood there looking down into one of the pits, trying to imagine the strength it took to survive that. It’s not a ‘fun’ tourist activity. It’s a necessary one. You feel the ghost of this island right there.

That evening, I did something I’ll never forget. Locals believe the spirits of the dead prisoners are most powerful at night.

Around 9 or 10 PM, hundreds of people, mostly Vietnamese tourists and locals, go to Hang Duong Cemetery. They go to pay their respects, especially at the grave of Vo Thi Sau. She was a teenage revolutionary girl the French executed. Now she’s seen as a kind of saint, a guardian angel of the island.

I felt like a total intruder at first, a foreigner wandering into this deeply personal, spiritual ritual. But no one seemed to mind. The place was lit up and humming with this quiet, intense energy. The air was thick with incense. I just watched families lighting incense, leaving offerings – flowers, mirrors, combs – at her tombstone.

I bought a small bundle of white flowers and some incense from a vendor outside and did the same. It was incredibly moving. Not scary, just profound. One of the most real cultural experiences I’ve had. Any good Con Dao travel guide should tell you this is a must-do, but also to be quiet and respectful.

After all that, I needed some simple, good food. I found a local seafood place buzzing with people and had some amazing grilled scallops and a whole steamed fish. The taste of the fresh ocean was a good way to end such a heavy day.

Day 2: Shaking it Off – Nature, Beaches, and Airplanes

After the emotional weight of day one, I needed the opposite. I needed nature. I needed to see the beauty that exists here now.

I got on my bike first thing in the morning and just drove. That northern coastal road is therapy. Every corner you turn is another ridiculous view that makes you pull over. It winds up through the Con Dao National Park.

I found a little sign for a trail to Ong Dung Beach. It was a 45-minute hike down through real, thick jungle. Sweaty, buggy, and completely worth it. At the bottom is this little rocky bay with perfectly clear water. I had it all to myself for a while. Best way to start the day. Remember to pack water for the hike back up, it’s a climb.

Then, beaches. The Con Dao beaches are wild and mostly empty.

First stop was Nhat Beach (Bãi Nhát). This place is weird and amazing. It only exists at low tide. For most of the day, it’s just water. But for a few hours in the afternoon, the sea pulls back and reveals this perfect strip of white sand.

I timed it right, and it was just me and a couple of other people there. The water was like glass. You feel like you’re on a secret beach that nature decided to show you for a little while.

Next, I headed to the famous one: Dam Trau Beach (Bãi Đầm Trầu). This is the one right at the end of the airport runway. It’s a gorgeous beach in its own right—long, sandy, calm water. But the gimmick is the airplanes.

I grabbed a coconut from a little shack, sat down, and waited. Before long, you hear this growing roar and then a plane comes screaming in, what feels like just a few feet over your head, to land. It’s ridiculous and loud and so much fun. A total adrenaline rush.

As the sun started to go down, I rode out to Shark Cape (Mui Ca Map). It’s not a swimming spot, just a point with all these jagged black rocks.

I sat on a rock and watched the sunset. It was the perfect, quiet end to a day of incredible natural beauty. That contrast, between the horror of the prisons and the paradise of the coastline, is what Con Dao Island is all about.

Day 3: The Market and a Last Coffee

Last morning. I woke up early to see the town in action at the Con Dao Market. It’s the only real market on the island, and it’s a chaotic slice of local life. Fishermen were haggling over their catch, piles of fresh seafood everywhere.

I walked through the produce section, just soaking in the sights and smells. I bought some of the island’s specialty, Mứt Hạt Bàng, which are these native almond seeds that they roast with either salt or sugar. They’re crunchy and addictive. Grab a bag for sure.

Then, coffee. Right near the market, I found a typical local spot. Just some plastic stools on the pavement. I ordered a cà phê sữa đá and just sat there for an hour, watching the world go by. It’s the simple things. If you love coffee culture like I do, my thoughts on the whole Vietnamese coffee scene are here.

Before heading to the airport, I went to An Hai Beach—the one right in town—for a final swim. It’s a nice, calm beach and was the perfect way to say goodbye.

I returned my bike, had a last quick lunch, and then it was time to go. Driving back to that tiny airport, I felt like I was leaving a different person than the one who arrived.

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Quick Word on the Food

You come to an island, you eat seafood. It’s fresh and it’s everywhere. Oysters, prawns, fish, squid. Just point at what looks good.

But also, seek out these two things:

Cháo Hàu (Oyster Porridge): I had this for breakfast one day. It’s a simple rice porridge, but it’s cooked with these small, sweet local oysters. So warming and delicious. You can try it here at Quan Cay Bang.
Bún Riêu Cua: This is a crab noodle soup you find all over Vietnam, but the version here felt extra rich and crabby. A fantastic, cheap lunch. Try it here at Quan 72 Bun Rieu.

And definitely try those almond seeds I mentioned. They’re unique to the island.

So, yeah. Con Dao.

It’s not your average holiday spot. It’s complicated. It will make you feel things you don’t expect to feel on a tropical island. It’s a place that asks you to look at its scars before you admire its beauty. And that’s what makes it so powerful.

It’s beautiful, tragic, and utterly unforgettable. If you’re the kind of traveler who wants a bit more than just a pretty picture, you have to go. It will stay with you, I promise.

Have you been? Or are you planning a trip? I’d love to hear your thoughts or answer any questions in the comments. Let’s talk about it.

6 thoughts on “3 days on Con Dao Island: Where I slept, ate & explored”

United States
Linh Nguyen says:
Wow, you’ve captured the essence of Con Dao perfectly. I visited a few years ago and that heavy vibe you mentioned is exactly what stayed with me. It’s so beautiful but you can’t escape the echoes of the past. I remember walking through the old prison and feeling chills, then the next day I was swimming in crystal clear waters at Bai Dam Trau. It’s a place that really makes you think. Did you manage to see any turtles nesting? That was a highlight for me.

7 months ago at
United States
TravelBug_Mai says:
omg the dark history part has me intrigued. definitely gotta check this place out.

7 months ago at
Japan
千尋 says:
Con Dao、以前から気になっていた場所なんです！「暗い歴史」という言葉に、ただ美しいだけじゃない奥深さを感じて。筆者さんのように、モーターバイクで風を感じながら、その両面を肌で感じてみたいです。Hang Duong Cemeteryの夜の儀式、想像するだけで胸が締め付けられそうですが、それもCon Daoの重要な一部なんですね。The Secret Con Dao、名前からして素敵！詳細なレポート、ありがとうございます！

8 months ago at
United States
vietnam_explorer says:
ooh the ‘heavy vibe’ is real. def wanna visit soon! 🤩

8 months ago at
United States
Anja Schmidt says:
This really resonates with me. I felt the same duality when I visited a historical site with a similar heavy past – the beauty was undeniable, but it was impossible to ignore the layers of pain. Did you find any specific places that felt particularly intense or thought-provoking during your exploration?

8 months ago at
China
小驴友 says:
哇，第一眼看照片就觉得海超美的！

8 months ago at

From the field

3 days on Con Dao Island: Where I slept, ate & explored

The TL;DR Version (For People Who Just Want the Facts)

Actually Getting to Con Dao Island

Plane

Ferry

Where I Slept: Con Dao Accommodation

The Only Way to See the Island

Day 1: Confronting the Ghost

Day 2: Shaking it Off – Nature, Beaches, and Airplanes

Day 3: The Market and a Last Coffee

Quick Word on the Food

So, yeah. Con Dao.

Thank you so much! 🥰

Keep Exploring Vung Tau

6 thoughts on “3 days on Con Dao Island: Where I slept, ate & explored”

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

The TL;DR Version (For People Who Just Want the Facts)

Actually Getting to Con Dao Island

Plane

Ferry

Where I Slept: Con Dao Accommodation

The Only Way to See the Island

Day 1: Confronting the Ghost

Day 2: Shaking it Off – Nature, Beaches, and Airplanes

Day 3: The Market and a Last Coffee

Quick Word on the Food

So, yeah. Con Dao.

Thank you so much! 🥰

Keep Exploring Vung Tau

6 thoughts on “3 days on Con Dao Island: Where I slept, ate & explored”

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

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