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I keep seeing photos of Hanoi Train Street with cafes right next to the tracks, but I also read that parts of it were closed to tourists for safety. We will be in Hanoi in December and I would love to see a train pass in the evening, but I do not want to wander into a closed area or get in the way of residents.
What is the situation right now? Is there a section that is open in the evening, with cafes where you can sit and wait for the train, or has it all moved to guided access only? And what time do the evening trains usually pass?
If Train Street is not really doable anymore, is there another spot in Hanoi where you can watch the trains safely without the crowd? I am happy to skip it if the honest answer is that it is more hassle than it is worth these days.
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We went in September and the situation was mixed. One stretch was clearly closed off with a barrier and a guard, but another stretch further along had cafes open and people sitting waiting for the train, and nobody bothered us. We went for the late afternoon train, around 5pm, and the cafe owner told us the exact time when we ordered. It felt safe enough, the train passes slowly and everyone steps back well before it comes.
Replying to TrailBlazerMike
That is really helpful, thank you. How did you find the open stretch, did you just walk along until you found cafes, or is there a particular entrance to aim for? I do not want to push past a barrier or end up somewhere I should not be.
Replying to Oliver Bennett
We just walked along the street level and followed the sound of cafes, not the tracks themselves, and when we saw an open cafe with chairs out we asked the owner if the train comes past there. That worked fine and felt respectful, we were customers, not trespassers. If a section looks closed, just turn back and try the next street, there are a few parallel lanes and one of them is usually open. Go for the 5pm train, it is less crowded than the late evening one.