We will be in Hanoi for five days in mid November and I am looking at a day trip to Ninh Binh, mostly for the Tam Coc boat ride. The photos of the river between the limestone cliffs look amazing, but most of them seem to be from spring, when the rice is bright green.
In November, is the scenery still worth it, or does it look brown and tired after harvest? I do not mind if it is not postcard green, I just want to know what to actually expect so I am not disappointed on the boat.
Practical questions too: how long is the boat ride, do the rowers really row with their feet, and is it worth combining Tam Coc with Hoa Lu or Mua Cave in the same day, or does that make the day too rushed? We are happy to get up early and take the train from Hanoi if that is the better way to do it.










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We did Tam Coc in early November last year and I would still say go. The rice was mostly cut by then, so the fields were not bright green, but the river and the cliffs carry the whole trip anyway, and there were far fewer boats than in spring. The ride took about an hour and a half, and yes, our rower really did row with her feet for most of it, which the kids found hilarious.
Replying to Sandy Robers
That helps a lot, thanks. Did you go by train from Hanoi, and if so, what time did you leave? I am trying to work out if Tam Coc plus Mua Cave in one day is realistic, or if we should just do the boat and take it slow.
Replying to Luke Stewart
We took an early train from Hanoi station and got to Ninh Binh before 9am, then a taxi to Tam Coc, so the boat was done by lunch. Mua Cave after lunch worked fine for us, but go late in the afternoon if you can, the light is better and the 500 steps feel less brutal when it is not midday heat. If you would rather take it slow, skip Mua and just walk around the village instead, that is a lovely afternoon on its own.