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Planning 3 days in Sapa in December and torn on the trekking situation. Agencies in Hanoi quote around 80 to 120 dollars for a 2-day trek with homestay, which feels like a lot. But I have also read you can just show up and hire a local guide in town for way less.
Has anyone done it the DIY way? How do you actually find a good guide, is it through the hotel, the market area, word of mouth? I am a reasonably fit solo hiker but I do not want to end up lost in the fog on some ridge.
Also December weather: is it too foggy and cold to even bother, or is it still worth going?
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Jumping in on the December question: it is cold, like 5 to 10 degrees, and the fog can sit all day. Bring proper layers and a rain shell even if it looks clear in the morning. That said, when the fog lifts for an hour the terraces look unreal, all moody and dramatic. I would still go, just do not expect blue-sky postcard views every day.
Did it DIY last year and it was the best decision. We stayed in Ta Van and our homestay owner connected us with a Hmong guide for about 500k a day for the two of us. Way cheaper than the Hanoi agency quotes and the money goes straight to the family. Sapa Sisters is the well-known outfit if you want something more organized but still local. Avoid booking through random touts around the church square, prices are inflated and quality is hit or miss.
Replying to TrailBlazerMike
That is super helpful, thanks. 500k a day sounds very reasonable. How did you handle the route, did the guide just decide, or did you pick the villages beforehand? Also was your homestay in Ta Van itself or closer to Sapa town?